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浜松付近の方言2

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2005.05.24

手揉茶を作ろう!

静岡県はお茶の産地です。私の家でも小規模ながらお茶を作っています。以前は近くの製茶工場で自分の家の茶葉を製茶してくれたのですが、時代の流れには逆らえず小規模な工場は閉鎖されてしまいました。せめて少しでも自家製のお茶を飲みたいという私の執念が、いまさらながら「手揉茶」を作ってやる!と駆り立てたのであります。HPなどで調べて挑戦しましたが、第一作目は紅茶になり、第二作は香りと色は出ましたが味のないお茶になりという感じでした。そして三年目にしてやっと甘味と渋みが出て納得のいくお茶に近づきました。この記録を写真等で紹介いたします。この味を出した後には強烈な筋肉痛が残るのでありました…。

104-0493_IMG

1.うちの茶畑の景色です。専業ではないのでかなりちっぽけです。
104-0494_IMG2.お茶の新芽の写真です。このように太陽の光に透けています。これを摘んだ時、とてもいいお茶の香りがします。この新芽をてんぷらにすると、これがまた美味しいんです。
104-0500_IMG3.古い葉(濃い緑の葉)が入らないように丁寧に新芽だけを摘みます。上から3番目までの開いていない新芽がベストです。
105-0501_IMG4.これはその日に家族総出で摘んだ総量です。この中から2Kgほど手揉茶用に残し、あとは出荷します。
105-0507_IMG5.さて、いよいよ手揉茶作り開始です。まずは摘んだ新芽を蒸して水滴を乾かすための道具を用意します。蒸し器、ザル、扇風機を使います。新芽は長時間置くと、熱を出して腐ってしまうので新鮮なうちにやらないと台無しになってしまいます。
105-0508_IMG6.新芽を蒸します。3〜40秒ぐらいふたをして蒸し、ふたをあけて長い箸でかきまわすという作業を繰り返し、芽の色があざやかな黄緑色に近づいて、いい香りがしたあたりで火からおろします。
105-0512_IMG7.扇風機をあてて蒸した芽の水滴を飛ばします。けっこう冷たくなるまで冷ましています。
105-0514_IMG8.ホームセンターで調達した大型の鉄板に厚めの和紙を貼付け下からストーブを当て、お手製の「ほいろ」を作りました。この上で手揉みと乾燥をします。この「ほいろ」に、こんにゃく粉を溶いて作った「こんにゃく糊」を引いておくと滑りがよくなり仕上がりも良くなります。
105-0516_IMG9.第一段階は、茶葉を上からパラパラと落としながら水分を飛ばします。この作業は約30分ぐらい行いました。手揉み・乾燥の作業中、茶葉の温度の目安は約40度ぐらいを保つようにします。あまり熱いと、できそこないの紅茶みたいになってしまいます。
105-0518_IMG10.第二段階では、茶葉をかき集めて、体重をかけながら力いっぱい揉み込みます。これが一番疲れるポイントで30〜40分行います。この行程を頑張ると、甘みと渋みがしっかり出てきます。茶葉はこのとき粘り気が出てきて、手が緑色になります。
105-0522_IMG11.揉み込んだ後、玉のような状態に固めて一度火から下ろし10分ほど冷まします。一面にあった茶葉がここまで小さくなってしまいます。この間に「ほいろ」を掃除しておきます。ここでもう一回「こんにゃく糊」を引いておきます。
105-0523_IMG12.第三段階は玉になった茶葉のかたまりを解きます。ここからさらに乾燥させていきます。
105-0524_IMG13.第四段階は、両手ですり合わせながら茶葉を揉んでいきます。形を整えるのが目的ですが、私のような素人だとなかなかきれいな形にはなっていきません。
105-0529_IMG14.乾燥が進んでいくと、茶葉の一部は粉のような状態になり、粘りがなくなってきます。
105-0532_IMG15.黄緑色だった茶葉は、しだいに濃い緑色に変わってきます。第四段階スタートから約1時間かかっています。
105-0540_IMG16.第五段階は「ほいろ」の上で揉まずに乾燥させます。あまり力を加えると茶葉が粉になってしまいます。形は悪いですが先端が針のようになり、お茶らしくなってきました。それからさらに約1時間くらい乾燥させます。
105-0543_IMG17.火から下ろして一応完成です。その茶葉を、乾燥している部屋に移し上に和紙をかけて1日ぐらい乾かしておきます。そして、さらに美味しくする秘訣を教えていただきました。お湯のみ1杯分ぐらいの茶葉を、電子レンジで約1分20秒ぐらい暖めてから2〜3分冷まして、お茶や海苔の缶に入れて保存します。
105-0569_IMG18.急須の中に多めの茶葉を入れ、お湯を注いで1〜2分待ちます。さーて、飲んでみましょう。形の悪かった茶葉ですが、甘味と渋みの効いたとてもおいしいお茶が出ました。苦労のかいがありました。めでたしめでたし!

おかげ様でなんとか成功しました。欲を言えばもう少し体裁のいい形になり、味が出やすければいいなーという感じでした。機会があれば手揉茶の職人さんに弟子入りして、一から教えて頂きたいなと思っています。とりあえず毎年頑張って作り続けたいと思います。

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浜松付近の方言2

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Comments

afid さんお久しぶりです。手もみとはすごいです。以前、仕事の関係で製茶工場にはよく出入りしていたのでお茶ができるまでの工程はよく知っています。蒸し→粗揉→揉捻→中揉み→中揉→精揉→乾燥だったかな。これらを全て手もみでやるとは恐れ入ります。自分で揉んだお茶の味は格別でしょうね。

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